Demolition Derby

DEMOLITION DERBY

Thursday, September 25, 2025

Total Payout = $8,000

Saturday, September 27, 2025

Total Payout = $12,000

Twisted Steel Promotions

2025 Demolition Derby Rules

  1. ANY YEAR MODEL: Must be an American made passenger car. No sedagons, No Imperials/Imperial stubs, No Suicide Lincolns, NO front wheel drive, No Taxi cabs, No hearses, No ambulances, No four-wheel drive, FWD or AWD.
  2. POWERTRAIN: ENGINE may run lower cradle, front plate with pulley protector. If you run a pulley protector, SWAY BAR MUST NEVER COME INTO CONTACT WITH PULLEY PROTECTOR. Must run motor mounts. No lower cradle direct to the frame. Solid motor mounts are allowed but must be stock style. May run BOP trans adapter unless found to be strengthen car. A lower cradle can only mount to the car at the motor mounts. You will be allowed a ½” thick plate for motor mount riser. Must be the same size as mount. This is to help with steering clearance. There must not be any other plate in the engine crossmember. You may run a bar from header to header to keep hood off headers and carburetors. NO HALOS, NO DPs. MID PLATE: YOU MAY USE A SPACER IF YOU HAVE A SHORT BELLHOUSING LIKE NLR SALES FOR BOP ADAPTER. If you have a mid-plate you want to cut down for your spacer fine but must be 1” circumference of the bellhousing and in no way strengthen the car. Simple bolt on header protector allowed.
  3. 03 and NEWER FORDS: All the same rules apply to these models. Kickers are allowed must follow the same guidelines. Stock rack and pinion, engine cradle can be the Slain cradle that does not touch the frame rails. Patch plates cannot be used on then engine cradle to tie to the frame.
  4. TRANSMISSION: Aftermarket bell allowed. Steel tail shaft housing are allowed but cannot be mounted solid to the crossmember. Nothing else may be added to the transmission such as pan protector etc. You can plate the bottom of the pan and cannot support anything else, a simple piece of plate that is it. Transmission must float, one wrap of chain with bolt or stock mount bolted in is fine. Factor crossmember for the car or a 2” x 2” x ¼” piece of tubing may be used. You may weld the mount for the crossmember to the frame on a piece of angle 3” x 3” x 6”. Aftermarket, or ice transmission coolers are allowed. May not reinforce car in any way.
  5. TRANSMISSION PROTECTORS: You are allowed to run transmission protectors but cannot run kickers if running a transmission protector, it is one or the other, not both. No DPs, or Halos, but can run the NLR style BOP Mid Plate as a spacer. Your mid plate should not go up further than mid-way up the cylinder heads, any higher than that will not run. Transmission protector cannot make contact with the dash bar or any cage material, and cannot push floor pan into the dash bar or cage material. Transmission protectors cannot be tied to engine cradles must remain two separate pieces.
  6. REAREND: Braced rearends allowed. Postals are ok. 8 lug ¾ ton rearends are ok. The rearend can’t reinforce the car in any way. If it does, you will cut or fit it to run. Pinion brakes are allowed. Watts link conversions: Watts link conversions are allowed. Bolt on style kit only, kit cannot be mounted to reinforce frame. Bolt for lower trailing arm at frame must mount inside frame, can’t be used as a pin. A 3” piece of angle or tube may be used as a mount, this piece can be welded on one side to the frame. After market or homemade trailing arms allow. CAN NOT reinforce cars in any way other than their intended use. They may be reinforced, and you may extend or shorten them. All trailing arms must be mounted to a stock location.
  7. A-ARM STRAPS: A-arms may not be reinforced. A-arms may be welded down with 2 pieces of strap 2” x 3” x ¼” PER A-ARM parallel to each other and vertical to the frame. These straps are intended for use to hold down the A-arms not as extra plates for the frame, so any part of the 3” strap length that is not on the A-arm but welded to the frame will be cut.
  8. SUSPENSION: No air shocks or solid front shocks. Front springs must be a single factor spring, no aftermarket or coil bound springs, and no tilting of the front springs. Must be able to look through the springs inside the frame so not taping or covering front springs in the pocket. Front springs may be used in the rear, and rear coil springs may be doubled. One loop of 3/8” chain or smaller may be used to hold rear spring in place. This may be wrapped around hump through package tray and around rearend. 1 ½” bolt. Old iron leaf springs must be factor to the car and in factory location. No welding or reinforcing shackles. No aftermarket spindles, no Lift spindles, metric A-Arms are allowed but beware of bumper height, Bar between the arm is allowed but must not be welded to the shock tower, and the bar must be from bolt to bolt and no larger than a factory tie bar. Tie Rods: can be aftermarket but factory appearing. No Heims. Any automotive ball joint is allowed.
  9. REAR COIL SPRINGS: You are allowed to run a piece of all thread no bigger than 1” through the rear coil springs to hold the springs in and set car height, this piece of all thread must only be mounted through the hole in the top of the frame rear spring pocket with a washer and nut on top and bottom side of frame do not put a place here washer and nut only, you can weld a nut to the top of the reared to mount the all thread to the rear end and must run through the coil spring. This also cannot run through the body, frame to rearend only. If you run all thread you cannot run a chain around the hump.
  10. FRAME: NO TILTING, NO COLD BENDING, NO PINNING, NO MANIPULATION OF THE FRAME. No undercoating, mudding, grease, dusting, or painting of the frame. You can dimple or notch frame in the rear to allow the car to roll up.
  11. HUMPS: You are allowed to dish the outward facing side of the hump only. Center dishing only (9” from center of hump forward. 9 in. from center to back. Total of 18”). No sharpening or square edges. Dish humps only not past contour of hump.
  12. FRAME SHORTENING: Front must not be shorter than front side of factory core support tab. Whole tab must remain intact in factory location. Back frame rails can’t be shortened. May be welded 4” from back of front bumper.
  13. FRONT BUMPER BRACKET: You are allowed to run a 4” x 14” x ¼” plate on the front frame horns from where the bumper is welded on. This plate must start at the back of the front bumper and go no further than 14” backwards anything over will be cut. Do not butt patch plates to this bracket.
  14. PATCH PLATES: You are allowed 2 patch plates per frame rail 4” x 4“ x ¼” make them square this is for fresh car as well as pre ran. Do not cut, twist or stretch these. They are allowed to be taco shaped and can be bent to fit 2 sides of the frame. Do not weld patch plates to the kickers or plate that the kicker sits on. There must be a gap between each weld on the patch plates of at least 1”. Do not butt patch plates together or to the bumper bracket.
  15. RESTUBBING: Cars may be restubbed in the crossmember area must be butt welded and you can use the piece allowed to mount crossmember to help support the repair. Don’t make this difficult the same way we have done it in the past.
  16. BODY: Core support ~ 2-3/4” all thread with no bigger than 1-inch washers to mount all thread. Core support spacer 2” x 2” x 6” high max may be welded solid to tab and core support around spacer only. May have a 4” x 4” x1/4” plate on top of tab under your core support spacer. No spray foam. Bolt rule: Hood 10-3/8” bolt max. 1 in. outside diameter washer mad. Wheel Well 5 – 3’8 bolt max. 1 in. outside diameter washer max. per wheel well. Bolts go through sheet metal only. No other bolts should be used other than what is specified in rules. Hood mounts: 6 spots to bolt hood down using ¾” max all thread. 2 being the front 2 all thread. The middle 2 can be mounted on a 2” x 2” flat plate with all thread welded or bolted to plate or 2” x 2” angle with all thread welded or bolted to plate. Angle or plates cannot tie fender and core support together. (Angle or plate can be welded to fender only). Back 2 mounts can be welded to back pockets at top of fire wall by cowl cannot tie to pocket and fender 5” x 5” max plate. All thread cannot go through frame and crush box. Hood top plates: 6” x 6” max. Hood hole: Hood needs a 10” hole or oversized header holes for fire extinguisher. You may run bar from header to header.
  17. DOORS: Weld all outside door seams 5” on 5” off 3” Strap Max or 3/8” bolt max with 1 in. outside diameter washer max or chain doors every 10 inches. Drivers’ door can be welded solid. You may put a door plate on the driver’s door. It may overlap seams 3” on vertical door seams. Can’t rollover top of door opening or extend the boxy at the bottom of the door. No contact with the frame.
  18. WINDSHIELD BAR: MANDATORY ~ 2” wide ¼” thick. You can only have a 2” contact weld on the roof and cowl on each end. They can weld it down or use only 1 bolt, 1 nut and 2 washers no larger than 5/8” to attach it at each end, no oversized washers. Bar from rollover bar to cowl must follow same rule as dash bar. It must be 6 inches from cowl and cannot be attached to sheet metal. You may use 9 wire in 2 places on each side of windshield. Make it simple!
  19. BODYBOLTS: All factory body bolts, and factory body bushings must be in car except 2-3/4 all thread on core support at stock location, and 4-3/4” all thread in trunk area in factory body bolt hold locations. Using a 2” body spacer. All nuts and washers must be inside the frame free floating.
  20. EXTRA BODY BOLTS: You are allowed 2 extra body bolts per side ¾” bolt maximum. Washers must be free floating. DO NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 4” on the top side and the washers must go through the frame on the bottom side with 3” max washer not welded. This is NOT for replacing factory body bolts, this is for down the side frame rail. Anywhere down the side frame rail behind front crush box to front part of rear crush box (IN THE RAIL ONLY). The extra body bolt holes should be just big enough for a ¾” all thread or ¾” bolt the 3” washers can be on the outside of frame free floating.
  21. TRUNKLID: Relocation of the speaker desk is not allowed. Your trunk lid and speaker deck may be V’ed in the center. DO NOT FLATTEN TO TRUNK FLOOR. – Tucking trunk lid: The only place where sheet metal can be welded is at drip rail only. Sheet metal at drip rail can be welded 5” on 5” off with 3” x 1/8” strap max. 4-3/4” all thread may be used in the 4 factory body bolt locations in the trunk. 6” plate may be used for the top of deck lid. All thread must be in the factory body bolt hole, and the 1” washer must go up inside the frame. Deck lids can be tucked in the factory location and do not attach to the floor. If not tucking, you may also shorten trunk lid and weld 5” on 5” off on the drip rail like the rest of the trunk. No matter which route is used an 8” inspection hole must be in the trunk lid for inspection.
  22. SHEET METAL: Front fenders and rear quarters may be creased. Do not get carried away on the quarters. They must remain upright. I will allow you to pull them in but not roll them over. DO NOT show up with the rear of your car looking like it is going to BB. We will be the judge of this not your opinion. You can bend the bottom of the quarters under the body but CAN NOT be pinched between body and frame.
  23. CAGE: Cage and Roll bar MANDATORY: 4-point cage – Cowl and seat bar no larger than a 6” x 6” ¼” thick tubing max. 2” x 2” ¼ minimum. Door bar 6” x 6” max tubing or 8” max C channel. Cannot go more than 8” past door post. Must also be a minimum of 6” off the highest point of sheet metal of floor. Do not measure from floor pans where your feet ride. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and be a minimum of 6” off the transmission tunnel. Rollover bar must mount to top side of door bars. Do not tilt the rollover bar back. Rollover bar can be attached to the roof in 2 spots. You may weld a 2” x 2” tab to bar and weld to the roof or bolt to the roof with a ½” bolt. This must be on the roof only, don’t tie it to the doors. One roof sign per car must be mount straight off rollover bar and cannot extend the width of entire back half of the roof. Make this easy about 18” off the back of rollover bar would be sufficient.
  24. GAS TANK PROTECTOR: 2” x 2” square tubing up to cage size metal. Cannot be attached to anything but cage. Must be centered on seat bar between humps. The protector cannot be any wider than 32” where it contacts the package tray. It can have angle bars from where the rollover bar attached to the seat bar to back of protector, and these angle bars must not run in an L-shape from the seat bar along the rear doors then over to gas tank protector. There can be 2 bars on the back of protector (with bar attaching them at the top) that go up towards roof, must be 3 inches away from roof sheet metal and this part of the protector can have a 2” x 2” bar on cage size material on each side of tank going from the back 2 bars back to the back of seat bar. The protector may touch the sheet metal but do not pressure into the package tray and must be 4” of the floor.
  25. GAS TANK: Factory fuel tanks must be removed. Metal racing tanks and metal boat tanks only. Must be mounted securely inside the car. Do not mount a tank to reinforce cars in any way. We do not have a tank size limit but there is a limit on the width of the gas tank protectors so it must be within the specs.
  26. DOWNBARS: You will be allowed 1 VERTICAL down bar on the inside of driver’s side and passenger’s side going down from the door bar. The down bars must be behind the inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. May be no further back than trans crossmember welded to the top of frame and bottom or side of door bar. No added metal other than 2” x 2” tubing max. You can also run 9 wire around the door bar and frame instead of a tub but this must be in the same location between the crush box and cross member, but you cannot run both so choose one or the other.
  27. KICKERS: 2” x 2” max from dash bar to frame and the kicker must attach to frame only not to come into contact to A-Arm mount. I will allow a plate the same size as the kicker to be welded to the frame and then the kicker welded to that plate, so this should slow down driving the kickers into the frame. Kickers must be one solid piece, no sliding kickers. If you have a preran with them then weld them up do not just tack them.
  28. BATTERY, BATTERY BOX and PEDALS: Battery must be relocated inside of the car and cannot be mounted to reinforce car. 2 batteries maximum. 12 volts or 24 volts. Batteries: Must be covered and secure. Battery box and pedals cannot act like kickers. Ski Inc style pedals are ok. They CAN’T bolt through fire wall. Must be mounted through floorboard sheet metal ONLY or free floating off the cage. Do not mount to reinforce car in any way.
  29. BUMPERS: Aftermarket or homemade bumpers allowed. Bumper point may not be no more than 14” from back of bumper to front of point. Minimum 32” wide at point base that way it is like Chrysler pointy. Bumpers can be hard-nosed. Cannot run any climber guards on top of the bumpers. Rear bumpers can be an aftermarket or homemade, for example 74 Impala rear replica is allowed, but pointy bumpers and ramp bumpers are not allowed on the back of the car. The rear bumper can have a 2” wide strap 6” long per side. Strap must go from bumper to body sheet metal. Must not be attached to the frame. Do not put just a piece of iron on as a Bumper they must look like they belong on a car. If you are just using tubing put some Bumper skin on it. FRONT BUMPER 8” TALL MAX. BACK 6” TALL MAX. YOU MAY WELD FRAME 4” BACK FROM THE FRONT BUMPER. BUMPER SHOCKS: Factory bumper shocks for the factory car. It must be mounted in the frame like factory unless the car had bumper shock mounted on the side of the frame from the factory. Shock Mount only can be welded to the frame in factory location and bolted through factory bolt holes. Do not put any tubing in the frame to replace the factory bumper shocks.
  30. BUMPER HEIGHT: FRONT BUMPER HEIGHT MAX 23”, REAR BUMPER HEIGHT MIN 14” from the ground. We will measure from the point that the bumper and frame meet on the bottom side of the frame. The Max height of the front bumper is 23”. So, if you nose the car up you had better pull it down. There will be no putting larger tires on and getting car sky high after inspect or coming to the derby as a pre ran and being sky high, if you’re too high cut the kicker and pull it down then weld up the gap in the kickers. This is strictly a safety issue for all drivers.
  31. NO BUMPER SHOCK OPTION: HARD NOSE Front Bumper you may shorten frame in front of tab. The whole tab must remain in stock location. Bumper may be weld straight to frame, but do not put any tubing in the frame to replace the factory bumper shocks. Back bumper you may remove shock and weld bumper straight to frame.
  32. WHEELS: Any wheel and tire combination. A bead protector is allowed. Must not be no larger than 2” of wheel size. The bead area only on both sides of the wheel.
  33. OTHER RULES: No hitting the driver’s door, this rule will be strictly enforced. Accidents do happen but there must be evidence of trying to avoid the collision. If you use the driver’s door as a shield that is on you.
  34. All the feature winning cars will be inspected by the track officials. If you are found illegal then you will be disqualified, and all winners move up. If you don’t like people looking at your car this is not the derby for you!
  35. Drivers must wear seatbelt and helmet when operating the vehicle. This will be checked in inspection and at the gate. You will not run if you do not comply. Drivers must remain in cars until the race is over or directed to leave by track official.
  36. LEAVE YOUR HELMET ON! All drivers must attend the drivers’ meeting. Any car that catches on fire 2 times in the race will be disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits. If it is found that a driver is impaired, they will not be allowed to compete.
  37. INSPECTION: Times will be announced for each show will several different venues. If something is found illegal on your car, you will have 1 times back through tech line to correct. If you do not have your problem fixed completely on the second pass through the tech line, you will lose your entry fee and will not run. Only the driver is to be in the inspection area with their car and keep all other pit/family members at the trailer because they will be asked to leave the area.
  38. If something is noted at the track gate, on the track or when pulling off the track that is illegal on your car, your stick will be broken and the car will be loaded on trailer. You will lose your chance to run and your entry fee. If in feature and you are a money car found illegal, you will be disqualified, and lower winning car will move up to money. THERE WILL NOT BE ANY VOTE INS!!! If your car is not right, it will not run!!! INSPECTORS HAVE FINAL SAY!!!
  39. If you have a question or are unsure about something, call. That’s why my phone number is on here. Call so we don’t have an issue during inspection.
  40. You have two minutes to make a hit. If a car stalls, an aggressive hit must be made every minute.
  41. If any spectator or driver enters the arena to initiate conflict with another driver or official during the event, they will be dealt with by law enforcement.
  42. The final say is up to judges. Questions about rules, call Andrew Ellis (870) 215-2464.