Demolition Derby

DEMOLITION DERBY

Thursday, September 26, 2024

Total Payout = $8,000

 

Saturday, September 28, 2024

Total Payout = $12,000

 

THURSDAY:

Little Tykes

4 Classes

Mini Vans, Mini Cars, Bump & Run, and Full Size Bone Stock

Each Class Pays a Total of $2,000

Total Payout $8,000 for that night

Inspection starts at 2:00 p.m.

 

SATURDAY:

War on Wheels Class Only

Total Payout $12,000

Inspection starts at 12:00 Noon

$50 entry for car and driver

 

MINI VAN RULES

  1. You may move the wire harness to the backside of the motor; do not move to the inside of the vehicle. Battery must be inside of vehicle mounted safely and secured.
  2. NO CARB SWAPS or distributor swaps, No aftermarket shifters, no aftermarket pedals. Headers are allowed.
  3. Bumpers must remain 100% stock OEM you can be swapped from any 80’s and newer Passenger car. No welding or reinforcing. Square frame off and butt weld. You can have 2 strands of #9 wire per side from bumper to core support to keep bumper from falling off. Do not strength the unibody in anyway.
  4. You may hard nose bumper but no added metal.
  5. ALL Doors can be welded 12” max per seam vertical only or 1-4’’x4’’x1/4’’ plate per vertical seam. Remove all glass from vehicle.
  6. Hood and tailgate must be held shut with chain or #9 wire or 3/8 bolts 4 spots max with 4 strands per location. If using bolts, Stamped washers only ½” max. tailgate may be removed. Hood and trunk must open at inspection.
  7. You can have a maximum of 4-point cage that does not extend more than 12” behind seat. Keep it basic.
  8. All cars MUST have a window bar or strap to keep the hood from coming into the car.
  9. Factory fuel tank preferred to stay under the vehicle if in front of the rear axle. No factory tanks in the back seat. So if the tank is not in front of the axle you need to call. These models should all be in front of axle.
  10. Suspension must remain stock and bounce.
  11. No AWD 6 cylinder max engine size.
  12. You may run any tire but only allowed small center.
  13. Seatbelts must be worn.
  14. No passengers
  15. All WOW competition rules apply to this class; such as, no sandbagging, driver’s door hits, must make an aggressive hit, etc.

WOW: WAR ON WHEELS

SATURDAY

ANY YEAR No Imperials, NO Suicides, NO sedagons, NO Imperial subs,NO front wheel drive, NO Taxi cabs, NO hearses, NO ambulances, NO four-wheel drive, NO FWD or AWD. Must be an American made passenger car.

POWERTRAIN: ENGINE May run lower cradle, front plate with pulley protector. If you run pulley protector, sway bar MUST NEVER COME INTO CONTACT WITH PULLEY

PROTECTOR. Must run motor mounts. No lower cradle direct to frame. Solid motor mounts allowed but must be stock style. May run BOP trans adapter unless found to be strengthen car. A lower cradle can only mount to the car at the motor mounts. You will be allowed a ½” thick plate for motor mount riser. Must be the same size as mount. This is to help with steering clearance. There must not be any other plate in the engine crossmember. You may run a bar from header to header to keep hood off headers and carburetors. NO HALOS, NO DP’S. MID PLATE: YOU MAY USE A SPACER IF YOU HAVE A SHORT BELLHOUSING LIKE NLR SALES. If you have a mid-plate you want to cut down for your spacer fine but must be 1’’ circumference of the bellhousing and in no way strengthen the car. Simple bolt on header protector allowed.

TRANSMISSION: Aftermarket bell allowed. No TRANSMISSION PROTECTORS. Steel tail shaft housing is allowed. Nothing else may be added to the transmission such as a pan protector etc. You can plate the bottom of the pan and must not support anything else. A simple piece of plate that is it. Transmission must float and can’t make steel tail solid to crossmember. One wrap of chain with bolt or stock mount bolted in is fine. Factory crossmember for the car or a 2’’ x 2’’x1/4’’ piece of tubing may be used. You may weld the mount for the crossmember to the frame on a piece of angle 3”x3”x6”. Aftermarket or ice transmission coolers allowed. May not reinforce car in any way. NO AFTERMARKET TRANSMISSIONS

REAREND: Braced rearends allowed. Postals are ok. 8 lug ¾ ton rearends are ok. The rearend can’t reinforce the car in any way. If it does you will cut or fix it to run. Pinion brakes are allowed. Watts link conversions: Watts link conversions are allowed. Bolt on style kit only. Kit is not mounted to reinforce frame. After market or homemade trailing arms allow. CAN NOT reinforce car in any way other than its intended use. They may be reinforced. You may extend or shorten them. All trailing arms must be mounted to a stock location. Bolt for lower trailing arm at frame must mount inside frame. Can’t be sed as a pin. A 3” piece of angle or tube may be used to mount. This piece can be welded on one side to the frame.

SUSPENSION: No air shocks or solid shocks. An A-arm may not be reinforced. A-arms may be welded down with 2 pieces of strap. 2” x 3” X ¼” PER A-ARM parallel to each other and vertical to the frame. Front springs must be a single factory spring no aftermarket. No tilting springs. Front springs may be used in the rear. Rear coil springs may be doubled. One loop of 3/8” chain or smaller may be used to hold rear spring in place. This may be wrapped around hump through package tray and around rearend. 1 ½” bolt. Old iron leaf springs must be factory to the car and in factory location. No welding or reinforcing shackles. No aftermarket spindles. No Lift spindles. Metric A-Arms allowed bar between the arm allowed but must not be welded to the shock tower. The bar must be from bolt to bolt and no larger than a factory tie bar. Tie Rods: can be aftermarket but factory appearing. No Heims. Any automotive ball joint is allowed.

FRAME: NO TILTING, NO COLD BENDING, NO PINNING. NO MANIPULATION OF THE FRAME. No undercoating, mudding, grease, dusting, or painting of the frame. They are getting drilled. How much I don’t know till we decided it is good. So, the inspection will not be short. Leave your friends at the trailer. You may dimple or notch frame in the rear to allow car to roll up. Humps: can be dished only the outward facing side of the hump. Center dishing only. (9” from center of hump forward. 9in from center to back. total of 18”) No sharpening or squaring edges. Dish Humps only. Not past contour of hump. Frame shortening: Front must not be shorter than front side of factory core support tab. Whole tab must remain intact in factory location. Back frame rails can’t be shortened. May be welded 4” from back of front bumper. YOU MAY HAVE 3 patch plates per frame rail 4”x4”x1/4” make them square this is for fresh car as well as pre ran. Do not cut, twist. Or stretch these. They are allowed to be taco shape and can be bent to fit 2 sides of the frame. Car may be restubbed in the crossmember area must be butt welded and you can use the piece allowed to mount crossmember to help support the repair. Don’t make this difficult the same way we have done it in the past.

BODY: Core support: 2- 3/4 all thread with no bigger than 1-inch washers to mount all thread. Spacer 2in x 2in max. x 3 1/2 inches. May be welded solid to tab and core support. Around spacer only. May have a 4’x4’x1/4’ plate on top of tab under your core support spacer. No spray foam. Bolt rule: Hood 10 – 3/8 bolt max. 1in outside diameter washer max. Wheel Well 5 – 3/8 bolt max. 1in outside diameter washer max. per wheel well. Bolts go through sheet metal only. No other bolts should be used other than what is specified in rules. Hood mounts: 6 spots to bolt hood down using 3/4 max all thread. 2 being the front 2 all thread. The middle 2 can be mounted on a 2in x 2in flat plate with all thread welded or bolted to plate or 2in x 2in angle with all thread welded or bolted to plate. Angle or plates cannot tie fender and core support together. (angle or plate can be welded to fender only) Back 2 mounts can be welded to back pockets at top of fire wall by cowl. Cannot tie to pocket and fender. 5in x 5in max plate. All thread cannot go through frame or crush box. Hood top plates: 6in x 6in max. Hood hole: Hood needs a 10” hole or oversized header holes for fire extinguisher. You may run bar from header to header.

DOORS: Weld all outside door frames 5” on 5” off 3” Strap Max or 3/8 bolt max with 1in outside diameter washer max or chain doors every 10 inches. Drivers’ door can be welded solid. You may put a door plate on the driver’s door. It may overlap seams 3’’ on vertical door seams. Can’t rollover top of door opening or extend of body at the bottom of the door. No contact with the frame.

WINDSHIELD BAR: MANDATORY: 2” wide 1/4” thick. Can only have a 2” contact weld at the roof and cowl on each end. They can weld it down or use only 1 bolt, 1 nut and 2 washers no larger than 5/8 to attach it at each end. No oversize washers. Windshield bars may not be bridged or stood up and down. They must lie flat. Bar from rollover bar to cowl must follow same rule as dash bar. It must be 6 inches from cowl and cannot be attached to sheet metal. You may use 9 wire in 2 place on each side of windshield. Make it simple!

BODYBOLTS: 6 Body bolts may be changed 2 added described below 2 extra body bolts per side 3/4” bolt maximum. Washers must be free floating. Do NOT weld the body washers to the floor. Maximum washer size is 4” on the top side. The washers must go through the frame on the bottom side with 3” max washer not welded. This is not for replacing factory body bolts, this is for down the frame rail. Not in crush box. Anywhere down frame rail behind front crush box to front part of rear crush box.

(IN THE RAIL ONLY) The extra body bolt holes should be just big enough for a 3/4 all thread or 3/4 bolt. The 3” washers can be on the outside of frame free floating. All factory body bolts, and factory body bushings must be in car except 2- 3/4 all thread on core support at stock location. 4-3/4 all thread in trunk area in factory body bolt hole locations. Using a 2’’ body spacer. All nuts and washers must be inside the frame free floating.

TRUNKLID: Relocation of the speaker deck is not allowed. Your trunk lid and speaker deck may be V’ed in the center. DO NOT FLATTEN TO TRUNK FLOOR. – Tucking trunk lid: The only place sheet metal can be welded is at drip rail only. Sheet metal at drip rail can be welded 5” on 5” off with 3” x 1/8” strap max. 4- ¾” all thread may be used in the 4 factory body bolt locations in the trunk. 6” plate may be used for the top of deck lid. All thread must be in the factory body bolt hole. The 1” washer must go up in frame. Deck lids can be tucked in factory location do not attach to the floor. If not tucking, you may also shorten trunk lid and weld 5” on 5” off on the drip rail like the rest of the trunk. No matter which route is used an 8” inspection hole must be in the trunk lid for inspection.

SHEET METAL: Front fenders and rear quarters may be creased. Do not get carried away on the quarters. They must remain upright. I will allow you to pull them in but not roll them over. DO NOT show up with the rear of your car looking like it is going to BB. We will be the judge of this not your opinion. You can bend the bottom of the quarters under the body but CAN NOT be pinched between body and frame.

CAGE: Cage and Roll bar MANDATORY: 4-point cage- Cowl and seat bar no larger than a 6” x 6” 1/4” thick tubing max. 2” x 2” x 1/4” minimum. Door bar 6” x 6” max tubing or 8” max C channel. Cannot go more than 8” past door. Must also be a minimum of 4” off the highest point of sheet metal of floor. Do not measure from floor pans where your feet ride. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and be a minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel. Rollover bar must mount to top side of door bars. Do not tilt the rollover bar back. Rollover bar can be attached to the roof in 2 spots. You may weld a 2”x2” tab to bar and weld to the roof or bolt to the roof with a ½” bolt. This must be on the roof only, don’t tie it to the doors. One roof sign per car must be mount straight off rollover bar. Cannot extend the width of entire back half of the roof. Make this easy about 18” off the back of rollover bar would be sufficient.

GAS TANK PROTECTOR: 2” x 2” square tubing up to cage size metal. Cannot be attached to anything but cage. Must be centered on seat bar between humps. The protector cannot be any wider than 24”. It can have angle bars from where roll over bar attaches to seat bar to back of protector. There can be 2 bars on the back of protector (with bar attaching them at the top) that go up towards roof, must be 3 inches away from roof sheet metal. (This needs to be welded to the top of protector to keep your 3” from package tray) This part of the protector can have a 2” x 2” bar or cage size material on each side of tank going from the back 2 bars back to the back of seat bar. The protector may touch the sheet metal but do not pressure into the package tray. Must be 4” of the floor.

GAS TANK: Factory fuel tanks must be removed. Metal racing tanks and metal boat tanks only. Must be mounted securely inside the car. Do not mount a tank to reinforce cars in any way. We do not have a tank size limit but we have a protector limit so it must be within the specs.

DOWNBARS: You will be allowed 1 VERTICAL down bar on the inside of driver’s side and passengers’ side going down from the door bar. The down bars must be behind inside of front door interior seam or will be cut out. May be no further back than trans crossmember welded to the top of frame and bottom or side of door bar. No added metal other than 2” x 2” tubing max. KICKERS: 2” x 2” max from dash bar to frame. Kicker to frame only no contact to A-Arm. I will allow a plate the same size as the kicker to be welded to the frame and then kicker welded to that plate. This should slow down driving kicker into frame. Kicker has to be one solid piece. No sliding kickers. If you have a preran with them. Weld them up. Not tack them.

BATTERY, BATTERY BOX AND PEDALS: Battery must be relocated inside of the car and cannot be mounted to reinforce car. 2 batteries maximum. 12 volt or 24 volts. Batteries Must be Covered and Secure. Battery box and pedals cannot act as kickers. Ski Inc style pedals are ok. They CAN’T bolt through fire wall. Must be mounted through floorboard sheet metal ONLY or free floating off the cage. Do not mount to reinforce car in any way.

BUMPERS: Aftermarket or homemade bumpers allowed. Bumper point may not be no more than 14” from back of bumper to front of point. Minimum 32” wide at point base that way it is like Chrysler pointy. Bumpers can be hard-nosed. Rear bumper can be aftermarket or homemade for example 74 impala rear replica is allowed. The rear bumper can have a 2” wide strap 6” long per side. Strap must go from bumper to body sheet metal. Must not be attached to the frame. ON BUMPERS FRONT OR BACK Do not put just a piece of iron on as a Bumper. They must look like they belong on a car. If you are just using tubing put some Bumper skin on it. FRONT BUMPER 8” TALL MAX. BACK 6” TALL MAX. YOU MAY WELD FRAME 4’’ BACK FROM THE FRONT BUMPER. BUMPER SHOCKS: Factory bumper shocks for the factory car. It must be mounted in the frame like factory unless car had bumper shock mounted on the side of the frame from the factory. Shock Mount only can be welded to the frame in factory location and bolted through factory bolt holes.

BUMPER HEIGHT: FRONT BUMPER HEIGHT MAX 25’’ HIGH. Rear bumper has to be at least 14’’ of the ground. We will measure from the point that the bumper and frame meet on the bottom.

NO BUMPER SHOCK OPTION: HARD NOSE Front Bumper You may short frame in front of tab. The whole tab must remain in stock location. Bumper may be weld straight to frame. Back bumper you may remove shock and weld bumper straight to frame.

WHEELS: Any wheel and tire combination. A bead protector is allowed. Must not be no larger than 2” of wheel size. The Bead area only on both side of the wheel.

OTHER RULES: No hitting the driver’s door, this rule will be strictly enforced. Accidents do happen but there must be evidence of trying to avoid the collision. If you use the Drivers door as a shield that is on you. 03 and newer fords: all the same rules apply to these models. Kickers allowed follow the same guide lines. 3-4”x4” plates per frame rail, stock rack and pinion, engine cradle can be the Slain cradle that does don’t touch the frame rails. Patch plates cannot be used on the engine cradle to tie to the frame.

ALL FEATURE: Winning cars will be inspected by the track officials. If you are found illegal.  When you will be disqualified, and all winners move up. If you don’t like people looking at your car this is not the derby for you! Drivers Must wear Seat belt and Helmet when operating the vehicle. This will be checked in inspection and at the gate. You will not run if you do not comply. Drivers must remain in cars until the race is over or directed to leave by track official.

LEAVE YOUR HELMET ON! All drivers must attend the drivers’ meetings. Any car that catches on fire 2 times in the race will be disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits If it is found that a driver is impaired they will not be allowed to compete. Inspection: Times will be announced for each show with several different venues. If something is found illegal on your car you will have 1 time back through tech line to correct. If you do not have your problem fixed completely on the second pass through tech line you will lose your entry fee and will not run. If something is noticed at the track gate, on the track or when pulling off the track that is illegal on your car your stick will be broken and car will be loaded on trailer. You will lose your chance to run and your entry fee. If in feature and you are a money car found illegal, you will be disqualified, and lower winning car will move up to money.

THERE WILL NOT BE ANY VOTE INS!!!! If your car is not right, it will not run!!!! INSPECTORS HAVE FINAL SAY!!!! If you have a question or are unsure about something, call (573) 344-1110. Call so we don’t have an issue in the inspection line. You have two minutes to make a hit. If a car stalls, an aggressive hit must be made every minute. If any spectator or driver enters the arena to initiate conflict with another driver or official during the event, they will be dealt with by law enforcement. Final cars will be inspected before the winners are announced. The final say is up to judges.

Rules can be found on Facebook at: War on Wheels Demolition Derbies. Contact Rick Hardy at 573-344-1110 for any questions or information.